Slow Kitchen Notes

Bread, stock, and other things that take longer than they should.

When to salt, and why I kept getting it wrong

For years I salted everything at the end because someone told me that was the professional thing to do. It is, for some things, and it is exactly wrong for others.

The distinction I eventually landed on is whether salt needs time to move. In a braise or a dough or anything with a large piece of meat, salt has work to do — it needs hours to get past the surface, and adding it at the end just gives you a salty outside and a bland middle.

In a sauce that is going to reduce, or a stock, the opposite: the volume changes underneath you, and a seasoning that was right at the start is a disaster at the end.

So: early for anything that needs penetration, late for anything that is going to lose water. Almost everything I cook falls cleanly into one of those two.

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